MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF 2013-04-02
Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2011 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2011 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Guests at today's Meadham Kirchhoff show arrived at their seats to find a booklet titled "A Cosmology of Women," comprising zine-style

cutouts of images such as Velázquez princesses and photos of Marianne Faithfull. Why? Unclear. On the runway, there were two

installations, evoking the shrines that spontaneously appear at the places where famous people meet ignominious deaths. Why? Again,

unclear. As the lights dimmed before the show, models clad in the new Meadham Kirchhoff looks could be seen massing at the exit to

the catwalk, and when the lights came back up, all the models began marching as one toward the photographers' pit, made a turn,

and marched backstage. They came back for one more parade, as before, and then the show was over. Just like that.

The reasons for this speed march, at least, became clear after the show. As Ed Meadham explained, a main theme of this collection

was uniforms and uniformity, and so it only made sense to show the clothes in a horde. "There's not much to these looks," Meadham

added. "They didn't require being seen one by one."

We'll take issue with that. Ben Kirchhoff and Ed Meadham are deep in their simplicity, and their clothes this season were as rigorously

strange as usual. The designers essentially jettisoned the crinkled silks of the past two seasons and invested themselves in bouclé wool

—a nod to Chanel that was relatively self-evident on the runway and then affirmed by the designers backstage. There were also takes

on school uniforms (little black wool dresses and pinafores) and peasant tops and dresses. It was hard to read the detail in the clothes

from the lickety-split runway procession, but that hardly meant it was lacking. There was a ton of hand embroidery, especially in the

peasant looks and pinafore blouses, and the wools and knits were subjected to Meadham Kirchhoff's signature meticulous unfinishing.

Looking at these pieces again, up close, after the show, you couldn't help but wish the duo had given them their individual due.

But there's no point in resenting designers for the same reasons that you love them. Meadham and Kirchhoff come to their work with

an intellectual seriousness all too rare among emerging designers, and they commit themselves utterly to their ideas. If that means

messing with the useful conventions of the catwalk show, so be it.

Texts by Style.com

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Posted by Jazz Age on 2013.04.02 at 01:20 AM in MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF
Tag: Meadham Kirchhoff , Fall 2011 Read-To-Wear ,


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